Pruning trees and shrubs is essential for maintaining their health, promoting growth, and enhancing their appearance. However, timing is crucial. trimming at the wrong time can stress plants and affect their ability to thrive.
This guide covers the best times to prune different types of trees and shrubs to ensure optimal results.
Why Timing Matters in Pruning
Pruning at the right time ensures:
• Healthy Growth – Encourages strong branch development and prevents disease.
• Flowering and Fruiting – Maximizes blooms and fruit yield.
• Pest and Disease Control – Reduces the risk of infections and infestations.
Best Times to Trim Trees and Shrubs
1. Winter (Late Dormancy) – Best for Most Trees
Best for: Deciduous trees, fruit trees, and many shrubs
• Ideal pruning period: Late winter (January to March) before new growth begins.
• Why? Trees are dormant, making it easier to shape them without causing stress. Sap loss is minimal, and wounds heal quickly in spring.
Exceptions:
• Avoid pruning spring-flowering shrubs (e.g., lilacs, forsythia) in winter, as it will remove flower buds.
2. Spring (After Blooming) – Best for Spring-Flowering Shrubs
Best for: Forsythia, azaleas, lilacs, rhododendrons
• Ideal pruning period: Right after flowers fade (April to June).
• Why? These plants develop flower buds on last year's growth, so trimming right after blooming prevents cutting off next year’s flowers.
Exceptions:
• Avoid heavy pruning of trees, as sap is actively flowing, which may cause excessive bleeding (e.g., maples, birches).
3. Summer (Mid to Late Season) – Best for Minor Shaping
Best for: Hedges, fast-growing shrubs, and trees needing minimal shaping
• Ideal pruning period: June to August.
• Why? Pruning helps maintain the shape of plants and control excessive growth. This is also a good time to remove dead or damaged branches.
Exceptions:
• Avoid major cuts on trees and shrubs, as summer pruning can reduce energy reserves needed for growth.
4. Fall (Avoid Major Pruning)
Best for: Light touch-ups, removal of dead or diseased branches
• Ideal pruning period: September to early October.
• Why? While it’s tempting to prune in the fall, cutting back too much can stimulate new growth that won’t survive winter.
Exceptions:
• Avoid heavy pruning of most plants, as it can make them vulnerable to frost damage.
Special Considerations for Different Trees and Shrubs:
Evergreens (Pines, Spruces, Hollies)
• Best pruned in late winter to early spring.
• Light shaping can be done in summer but avoid cutting back into old wood.
Fruit Trees (Apples, Peaches, Cherries, etc.)
• Best pruned in late winter for structural shaping.
• Light summer pruning can help manage fruit production.
Hedges (Boxwood, Privet, Yew)
• Trim in late spring and again in mid-summer to maintain shape.
Roses
• Hybrid teas and floribundas: Prune in early spring when buds begin to swell.
• Shrub roses: Prune lightly after flowering.
Conclusion:
Understanding when to prune trees and shrubs ensures they remain healthy and attractive year-round. For most trees and shrubs, late winter is the best time for major pruning, while summer and fall are best for minor shaping and maintenance. Always research specific plant needs before trimming to avoid damaging them.
Summer Mowing Guide for Bermuda and Fescue Grass in Oklahoma
Oklahoma summers are notoriously hot, dry, and unpredictable. When it comes to maintaining a lush, healthy lawn, mowing is one of the most important (and misunderstood) tasks. Two of the most common turf grasses in Oklahoma—Bermuda and fescue—have very different growth patterns and seasonal needs. To keep your lawn thriving during the hottest months of the year, it’s crucial to understand how to properly mow each.
---
Bermuda Grass: The Summer Champion
Overview:
Bermuda is a warm-season grass that loves Oklahoma summers. It thrives in full sun, grows aggressively, and can recover quickly from wear. But mowing it too high or too low can weaken the turf and invite weeds or disease.
Optimal Summer Mowing Practices:
Mow Height:
1 to 2 inches is ideal in summer. Use the lower end for smooth, flat lawns and higher end for lawns under stress or drought.
Frequency:
Mow every 3–5 days, or as needed to never remove more than ⅓ of the blade height at a time.
Sharp Blades:
A clean cut prevents fraying, which can lead to browning and disease. Sharpen blades at least once per month in summer.
Bag or Mulch?
Mulching is best—especially if mowing frequently—because it returns nutrients to the soil. However, if clippings are thick or wet, bag to prevent clumps and fungus.
Drought Tip:
During extended dry spells, raise the blade height by ½ inch to reduce stress and encourage deeper roots.
---
Fescue Grass: The Cool-Season Struggler
Overview:
Fescue is a cool-season grass, meaning summer is its off-season in Oklahoma. It tends to struggle in July and August when temperatures soar above 90°F. Mowing it correctly during this time is essential to avoid permanent damage.
Optimal Summer Mowing Practices:
Mow Height:
Keep it high—3.5 to 4 inches during summer. Taller grass shades the soil, cools the root zone, and helps retain moisture.
Frequency:
Mow as needed (often every 7–14 days in summer). Growth naturally slows due to heat stress.
Watering Consideration:
Fescue needs deep, infrequent watering in the early morning (2–3 times per week). Avoid mowing immediately after watering.
Stress Management:
Avoid mowing during peak heat (typically 2–6 PM). Morning or early evening is best to reduce plant stress.
Avoid Scalping:
Never remove more than ⅓ of the grass blade. Scalping weakens fescue, especially when it’s already stressed by the heat.
---
General Summer Mowing Tips for Oklahoma Lawns
Don’t mow when it's wet. Wet grass is more prone to disease and can lead to uneven cuts and soil compaction.
Rotate mowing patterns. Change directions each mow to avoid ruts and promote upright growth.
Check for pests and weeds. Summer is prime time for crabgrass, armyworms, and chinch bugs. Early mowing helps spot issues before they spread.
Keep your mower clean. After each mow, clean the deck to prevent disease transfer and buildup of sticky Bermuda clippings.
---
When to Stop Mowing or Adjust
Bermuda: Keep mowing until the first hard frost in fall. Then stop and prepare for dormancy.
Fescue: Summer is survival mode—mow only when necessary. Real growth resumes in fall; overseeding in September can help thicken thin spots.
We use cookies to analyze website traffic and optimize your website experience. By accepting our use of cookies, your data will be aggregated with all other user data.